李明熙、Kimberlogic:迷失在龍脊金坑梯田

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龍脊金坑梯田/李明熙

遊龍脊梯田,選擇了最深處的金坑大寨,從桂林出發,轉折坐了三個多小時的小巴才到。在大寨牌坊拒絕了瑤族婦女挑行李及領路,實情是我們每人只得一個小背囊,而她們的歲數看似是我們一倍,雖然價錢不高,但實在不好意思。

可是大寨路標指示不足,加上之前山泥傾瀉,靠著門票上的小小地圖,我們於烈日當空,在山頭上上落落迷路近兩個小時。幸好遇上賣野山蜂蜜的夫婦,指點我們翻過山泥路,直達田頭寨頂的青年旅館。夫婦說全靠近年開發旅遊業,大寨村民的生計才有點起息,不然這裡早已人去「田」空。

大寨到處可見扶貧成功的標語,年初村民獲分派 500 萬的旅遊分紅,按照種植水稻和維修梯田景觀,一戶最多可分到 4 萬多元。

山中的竹筒飯,即叫即燒,等半小時,就有陣陣臘肉糯米加竹香。
沿著石板路走,偶爾穿過田地,可以近距離看到一層層的梯田結構。

我在山中餐廳看到他們用泰國米,便開玩笑跟 Kim 說,鬼斧神工的梯田,全為遊客而運作,不為食用,看來離事實不遠。不過,山中的竹筒飯,即叫即燒,等半小時,臘肉糯米加竹香,配上梯田美景,管他甚麼鬼斧「人」工或是進口稻米,我們一連兩晚食過返尋味。

入住的青旅是全木建的吊腳樓,房間對正梯田。縱然天氣陰晴不定,但我們還是要往山頂的「西山韶樂」景點一行,希望居高臨下看梯田。沿著石板路走,偶爾穿過田地,可以近距離看到一層層的梯田結構。

瑤族女性從 12、13 歲開始蓄髮,將頭髮在額前盤出一個髻。
山中的竹筒飯,即叫即燒。

路上有不少長髮婆婆開的小食亭,瑤族女性從 12、13 歲開始蓄髮,將頭髮在額前盤出一個髻。重點是不論老幼,我們都看不到一絲白髮。除羅漢果外,洗髮精是龍脊另一樣受歡迎的「土產」。


Lost in the Longji Rice Terrace/Kimberlogic

Starting from Guilin, we took a two hours bus ride to the rice terraces of Longji. The bus ride only brought us to the main road near the entrance gate of the three main Terraces. From there, we had to take two different mini buses. The last bus dropped us at the bottom of the mountain in the small village of Dayau Zhai. From the village we had to hike up the mountain for 30 minutes to our hostel at the very top.

Since this terrace was only recently opened to tourist compared to the other two, there were fewer people and not much to do or see in the village. The sun was bright and hot that day and our bags were heavy, but we managed to climb a great distance before we realized that the road in front of us had not been finished yet. We had been following a large track and missed the small footpath, so we had to go back down the mountain to find the path.

Once we found the footpath, it was another steep climb in the blazing sun. We reached a small shelter where a local couple was selling crystalized honeycomb. We sat down to take a rest and that’s when we saw we were on the wrong mountain. I felt like giving up, I was so tired and burning hot. Being that deep in nature, giving up was not an option. There was nowhere else to go, or to stay, we had to find our way. The woman told us to go all the way down the mountain and start over, but the man told us about a small path that locals use to get over to the next mountain.

He told us to go slow and keep looking over the cliff to see the path because it was difficult to find. After crossing over two landslides and searching for a way to safely get down to the path, we were finally on the right track again. The 30 minutes hike took us two and a half hours, but when we finally reached our hostel the view made all of our frustration disappear.

Our hostel was an old wooden house on the edge of the mountain. Every window had an amazing view of the terraces. Since everything was wood (the floor, walls, ceiling and stairs etc.), every step we took made a loud creaking sound, so we had to tip toe while walking inside. Since everyone stayed at our hostel tried to be extra quiet, it added to the atmosphere and the serenity of the mountains.

We were so deep in the mountains with very few people and beautiful scenery, I found it hard to believe I was in China. The rice terraces were lush green with the sound of trickling water, we sat for hours just staring at this magnificent sight. Once the sun went down and the view disappeared, the mountains came to life. The sounds of all of the creatures from horses to insects were so loud, yet peaceful, I felt like the mountain was a living creature.

After a few days of exploring and relaxing high up in the mountains, it was time to come back down and move to our next destination. This time we found the correct path straight away and the walk down was a breeze.

※ 此欄文章為作者觀點,不代表本網立場。 ※
李明熙、Kimberlogic 雜碎集

我們沒分東方或西方思想,只想以雜碎的遊歷去建立自己的世界觀和價值觀。We are neither eastern nor western mind. We just want to establish our worldview and values through traveling. 【李明熙】 曾用七個月時間從柏林踏單車回港,又不自量力參加蒙古越野單車賽。現從事影像製作、旅遊、教育等,自我催眠周身刀。著有「陌路回家」、「單車遊牧」及「良業遊民」。 【Kimberlogic】 An American who resides on the small island of Peng Chau, in Hong Kong, has a passion for traveling, partaking in local food and drink, different cultures and customs and watching people react to the world around them.

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