越南峴港到順化之間的海雲關(Hai Van Pass),只有 100 公里,被 Top Gear 譽為世上最美公路之一。當地不少旅行社提供電單車兩日一夜的往返行程,縱使我有電單車牌,要坐陌生人的車尾,我自認沒膽量。公共巴士選擇行走隧道,避開迂迴的海雲關山路。至於火車則沿海岸線走,每日五班列車。

火車站買票時要出示護照,車票上印有自己的名字,並寫著「Foreigner」,軟座只需 81,000越南盾(約28港元)。車站沒有月台,也沒有英文廣播。雖然越南列車是單軌行走,峴港又不是大站,基本上同一時間不會有兩班列車到站,但上車前還是再向站長確認一下比較安全。

火車車程約 2.5 小時,比其他交通工具都要慢,但這條建在懸崖上的路軌,吸引了不少遊客。火車向北行,海岸在右邊,我們的座位卻在左邊,而且還是倒車方向。但火車開進海雲關時,大部分遊客都會離座,走到躺臥車廂,倚窗看海。
bikerental在順化,透過 Expedia 的推介,入住了世外桃源般的 Pilgrimage Village Hue ,還有幸被升級到蜜月別墅。度假村離市區只有 15 分鐘車程,包車一日遊還不如自己租電單車。但香港發出的國際駕駛許可證在越南並不認可,縱使是透過酒店租車,還是要自己承擔所有法律及保險上的負任。別貪租車 10 萬盾一日那麼便宜就冒險,當你騎到市中心順化皇城附近時,那瘋狂的交通流量,一浪推一浪,連轉彎的空間也沒有,一直被推著走。



From Private Train Cabin to Suicidal Motorcycle in Vietnam/Kimberlogic

Recently we spent 8 nights in Vietnam, traveling to Da Nang, Hue, and Hoi An. Traveling to Vietnam was the first time I needed to obtain a visa while in Asia, which already set an exciting and adventurous tone for this trip. And sure enough, Vietnam did not disappoint!

The people were so friendly and the food was absolutely amazing! On the other hand, the traffic flow and patterns are something that everyone should see, and not everyone should try their hand at. When you see an entire family of five on one motorbike or a man driving with ten cages full of chickens on the back of his motorbike, you have only hit the surface of the things you will see on the road in Vietnam. Traffic never stops, it just seems to flow. If you make a quick, sudden movement or you hesitate, the flow is disrupted into chaos. It truly is an art form.

While in Hue, we decided to rent our own motorbike so we could see more of the area. To get on a bike and into the traffic of Vietnam; you must either have a death wish, have utmost confidence in your skills or really love and trust the person driving you. For me it was the latter. Although being on the back of a bike in Vietnam traffic was one of the most terrifying experiences, we were addicted and had to rent a bike for the remainder of our trip.

10_Crashing a wedding partyOn the way to My Son, we took a few wrong turns and ended up seeing more of the lush, mountainous countryside. We passed local markets, people drying rice on the road and got a closer look into the daily life outside of the tourist areas. On the way back to Hoi An, the sun was at its strongest, so we stopped in a driveway to apply more sunblock. To our surprise, there was a wedding going on at this house and the wedding party was just arriving. The tourist coaches and other vehicles beeped their horns as they drove past, but we were lucky enough to see them up close, congratulate the couple and have photos with them. It was a special, rare experience that would have passed us by had we not set out on our own adventure.

※ 此欄文章為作者觀點,不代表本網立場。 ※
李明熙、Kimberlogic 雜碎集

我們沒分東方或西方思想,只想以雜碎的遊歷去建立自己的世界觀和價值觀。We are neither eastern nor western mind. We just want to establish our worldview and values through traveling. 【李明熙】 曾用七個月時間從柏林踏單車回港,又不自量力參加蒙古越野單車賽。現從事影像製作、旅遊、教育等,自我催眠周身刀。著有「陌路回家」、「單車遊牧」及「良業遊民」。 【Kimberlogic】 An American who resides on the small island of Peng Chau, in Hong Kong, has a passion for traveling, partaking in local food and drink, different cultures and customs and watching people react to the world around them.