李明熙、Kimberlogic:訪庫斯科 落馬丘比丘 遊走於印加文明遺跡

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馬丘比丘背包客雖多,但不會聚在一起吵吵鬧鬧。

天空之城馬丘比丘/李明熙

一直以為秘魯馬丘比丘很高,所以有天空之城別稱,到達後才發現,是我們進入安第斯山脈個半月來的最低點。

2 月是馬丘比丘雨季,每天都下雨,我們打消了從 Cusco 徒步上山的念頭(事實上要提前幾個月訂團),只好坐火車。亦因為雨季,火車公司為保養路軌,從 Cusco 到 Ollantaytambo 的路軌封閉,改為先坐巴士,再駁火車上山。最便宜的一程在早上 5 時 20 分從 Cusco 出發,4 個半小時後上到終點站 Aguas Calientes。

火車是開天窗式設計,車廂內陽光充足,還有服務員提供免費餐飲。火車沿著 Urubamba 河,在山谷中行駛,偶爾可以看到半身鮮紅的秘魯國鳥 —— 安第斯動冠傘鳥。我們看著水流方向,才發現火車在下山,上網一查,馬丘比丘在海拔 2,430 米高,比 Cusco 低近一千米,而且濕度極高。

開天窗式設計的火車沿著Urubamba河在山谷中行駛。

Aguas Calientes 這小鎮以宰遊客出名,入餐廳前要講好價,否則又加稅又加服務費。當然,他們賴皮你耍惡不付,他們亦束手無策,始終淡季餐廳多遊客少。最大問題是,在這鎮幾天,沒吃過價錢跟水準成正比的一餐。

在 Aguas Calientes 還要坐一程半小時專巴才到馬丘比丘入口,鎮中雖有登山路,但要走兩小時攀 400 米,山路濕滑陡峭,還要跟專巴爭路,所以 24 美元的來回車票亦只能乖乖付款。

馬丘比丘門票不能即場購買,可在網上、Cusco 或 Aguas Calientes 預購,分上下午票,而且每天有入場限額。在門前有一張路線圖,說明哪些路線是單向通行,進場前要做好功課。大部分的旅行團在 9 時進場,我們 6 時到達,背包客雖多,但不會聚在一起吵吵鬧鬧,不難找個寧靜的角落,欣賞這個謎一般的印加遺跡。

The main plaza of Cusco reminded me of Disney World.

The Sacred Valley of the Incas/Kimberlogic

Machu Picchu is an extraordinary place. It is world-famous, and after visiting I understand why. Anyone interested in Machu Picchu has probably heard of the city of Cusco as well. Cusco is the biggest city closest to Machu Picchu with an airport, bus terminals and even a railway station. Almost every visitor to the ruins either stays in Cusco at some point of their journey or at least passes through this city. Cusco sits at an elevation of 3,399 meters (11,151 feet), so it is suggested for tourists to spend a couple days here to acclimatize before trying to do any activities. What isn’t widely publicized is how much more the Cusco area has to offer than only Machu Picchu.

The main plaza of Cusco reminded me of Disney World when I first saw it. It was so clean, there were no cars and all of the buildings were uniformly picture perfect. With closer inspection of these picture perfect buildings we found tour companies, tourist restaurants and souvenir shops, which was a little off-putting for us, but still beautiful to look at. Just a short walk in any direction away from the main plaza are so many neat neighborhoods, restaurants and markets where we found much better prices and much better food.

A great place for breakfast is the San Blas Mercado. In this market you can find a mix of locals and tourists sitting down at the stalls for fresh juice and a bite to eat. We ate our brunch here everyday, left stuffed and only spent around 10 Soles each. Plus, every woman running a stall was always smiling. For dinner, we frequented a place called Divina Rosa, just North of the main plaza. Here, we found what looked like a typical, small tourist menu restaurant, but the food and service were spectacular. It was very cheap, portions were big and the staff actually cared about the food and the customer.

Cusco is also the gateway to what is known as the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Although many of us have only heard of Machu Picchu, there are so many more ruins and Inca sites in this area. After doing a little research, we rented a motorbike and spent the day touring the Sacred Valley on our own.

Our favorite stop was at Moray. Moray is an archeological site that consists of very peculiar Inca ruins. As with most of the Inca sites, Moray consists of terraces, but these terraces are circular. The circular depressions are 30 m (98 ft) deep and have a temperature difference up to 15 °C (27 °F) between the top and the bottom terrace. Although no one is exactly sure what this site was used for, archaeologists believe Moray was used as an agriculture research site, to test different crops at varying altitudes.

There are many ways to visit the Sacred Valley. You can join all kinds of tours, including different activities, varying in length from half-day to multiple days. Due to our limited amount of time and our need for freedom, renting a motorbike fit our travel style best. Plus, being on a motorbike was a great way to see so much of the amazing, dramatic Peruvian landscapes. Riding through this fertile, green valley with giant snow-capped mountains in the distance, pristine lakes and cute little towns along the way was one of my favorite experiences in all of Peru.

Our favorite stop was at Moray.

我們的 #Home2HomeTravel

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李明熙、Kimberlogic 雜碎集

我們沒分東方或西方思想,只想以雜碎的遊歷去建立自己的世界觀和價值觀。We are neither eastern nor western mind. We just want to establish our worldview and values through traveling. 【李明熙】 曾用七個月時間從柏林踏單車回港,又不自量力參加蒙古越野單車賽。現從事影像製作、旅遊、教育等,自我催眠周身刀。著有「陌路回家」、「單車遊牧」及「良業遊民」。 【Kimberlogic】 An American who resides on the small island of Peng Chau, in Hong Kong, has a passion for traveling, partaking in local food and drink, different cultures and customs and watching people react to the world around them.

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