李明熙、Kimberlogic:嚐遍西安街頭小食 細看兵馬俑

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八大名菜以外的西安小食/李明熙

這次長途旅行的最後一站是被譽爲「天然歷史博物館」的西安,UNESCO 認可的世界歷史名城之一。

對讀中史長大的我,自小覺得西安是中原的正中央,既是歷代 13 個皇朝的首都,又是通往世界的絲綢之路起點。不管過去二、三十年西安變得有多現代化,每次到西安都感覺回到中華文化的起源地。

但對於 Kim,跟她說這些歷史云云,很難三言兩語說得明白。帶她來西安,其一是為了讓她感受一下這個千年古都,其二是讓她吃盡西安獨有的街頭小食。

細看中國八大名菜,西安菜榜上無名。這正因西安是古代交通和文化樞紐,每天都在吸收新事物和改變,難以標籤。相對北京街頭小食,西安小食可以視為正餐,而且種類眾多,即使逗留一週,餐餐不同亦可不重複。

民宿主人說不要到鼓樓旁的回民街,那裡迫滿遊客,當地人通常去中山門前的永興坊。但我倆都覺得永興坊人多得像年宵市場,別說要找個位座,還未看到小食店賣甚麼就被推走了。反而回民街的店舖門面整齊得多,價錢貴少許,但空間大座位多,可以舒舒服服吃一餐。

給 Kim 介紹羊肉泡饃,第一次吃時,她的饃掰得不夠細,似吃羊肉湯包,但她覺得好玩又好吃。第二次給她點已掰好的,用湯匙一口一口吃,就此上癮了。

我的至愛是那中文字有 60 多個筆劃的 Biang Biang 麵,又名褲帶麵,麵長如古裝褲帶,一碗一大條,麵質厚而寬,口感勁韌,沒有湯底,只有麵汁,是用番茄、牛骨、大蒜、芫荽和辣油煮成。

在西安吃甚麼都會點一瓶「冰峰」汽水,味道似橙味「芬達」。當地人把冰峰、涼皮、肉夾饃合稱三寶,街頭地位極高,近年還推出罐裝酸梅湯,是街頭羊肉串燒的良伴。

Xian City Wall.

Emperor’s Terracotta Army/Kimberlogic

Xian was the capital city of China for thirteen different dynasties. Xian’s biggest claim to fame is the Terracotta Army that was found in the 1970’s. As with most archeology discoveries, the Terracotta Army was accidentally discovered by a couple of farmers.

This region was known to have many underground springs, so in 1974, when these farmers were trying to dig a well, they kept finding fragments of terracotta sculptures. Archeologists were brought in and discovered the largest pottery figurine group ever found in China.

There are three different pits containing the army. It is estimated that these pits hold more than 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses. Besides the army, non-military figures were found in other pits, including officials, acrobats, strongmen, musicians and animals. As if the size and amount of figures weren’t impressive enough, each figure that has been unearthed is completely unique. The figures vary in height, weight, uniform and hairstyle, plus, all of the human figures have a different face.

Getting to the complex was quite simple. After exiting Xian City Wall on the North side, there is a bus stop just a few meters away. Once on the bus, the ride was about an hour long and it dropped us right in the parking lot of the Terracotta Army complex. Tickets cost around 150 RMB per person and we were able to purchase them right at the gate. To get a slight idea of how big this necropolis is, after entering the first gate, you can choose to stroll along the semi-shaded paths for about 10 minutes or take a shuttle bus to the site of the three pits and museum.

The first pit is by far the most impressive. When we entered the building, I didn’t realize just how long the building actually is. It is basically like an airplane hangar which keeps the archeological site preserved and sheltered from the weather.

I’ve seen countless photos from this site, but being there in person really put things into perspective. The coolest part of visiting this place in person was to take the time to check out, up close as many warriors as I could with my zoom lens. Each one was so different. It was crazy to think about all of the workers making these figures and assembling them so many thousands of years ago.

The last pit we visited was pit two. Besides the digging site, this building also had a few of the soldiers assembled behind glass so you could see them up close. It was amazing to see all of the detail that went in to creating each soldier, even down to strands of hair and patterns on the bottom of their shoes.

Many emperors and rulers from all different countries have left some form of legacy behind. Emperor Qin Shi Huang replicated an army that has been well preserved since the third century BC. Even though archeologists have found his tomb, they have not opened it yet because they do not want the air to ruin the treasures believed to be inside. I believe finding an entire army outside his tomb is a good indication that the inside is even more spectacular. I just hope technology for preservation of artifacts advances enough in my life time to see inside of Emperor Qin Shi Huang’s tomb someday.

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李明熙、Kimberlogic 雜碎集

我們沒分東方或西方思想,只想以雜碎的遊歷去建立自己的世界觀和價值觀。We are neither eastern nor western mind. We just want to establish our worldview and values through traveling. 【李明熙】 曾用七個月時間從柏林踏單車回港,又不自量力參加蒙古越野單車賽。現從事影像製作、旅遊、教育等,自我催眠周身刀。著有「陌路回家」、「單車遊牧」及「良業遊民」。 【Kimberlogic】 An American who resides on the small island of Peng Chau, in Hong Kong, has a passion for traveling, partaking in local food and drink, different cultures and customs and watching people react to the world around them.

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